THE FIRST TUDOR SUBMARINERS

Ref. 7922

“In 1954, TUDOR set out on a new path which would contribute to forging its legend. It was in that year that the brand’s first divers’ watch, the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922, saw the light of day. Designed from its origin to fulfil exceptional criteria of durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness at a moderate price, it quickly positioned itself as an instrument of choice for professionals.” -Tudor

According to their website, Tudor released their very first submariner, the ref. 7922, in 1954, despite the earliest serials dating to 1957 (range of 244xxx to 288xxx). The watch designed for divers was 37mm in size, featured a 6mm twin lock crown and was water resistant to 100 meters. The 7922 lacked crown guards - a key characteristic of these early submariners. The 7922 had a bidirectional 5-minute no-hash insert and was powered by a modified Fluerier movement, the calibre 390 - a self winding movement with a frequency of 18,000 beats per hour. The serial and reference number can be found on the outside of the case back.

It’s important we understand that the early days of the submariner were marked by experimentation, resulting in various irregularities. Fortunately, collectors have meticulously cataloged these early submariners, providing us with a knowledge base to reference.

Cue the “Big Crown” 7922…

The 7922 also had a variation with a “Big Crown,” that featured a 8mm Brevet + crown (same crown found on the Rolex references 6200 and 6538) and a thicker case. In contrast to the small crown version, the serial and reference were engraved in between the lugs.

So, why did the 7922 also have a version that featured a thicker case with a larger crown? Well, the 7922 (and 7923) marked the beginning of Tudor’s enduring relationship with the MN. “TUDOR's special relationship with the French Navy dates back to the beginning of 1956 when the Toulon-based Underwater Study and Research Group or Groupement d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.) in French received Oyster Prince Submariner watches for evaluation. These were examples of references 7922 and 7923, both water resistant to 100 meters and equipped with automatic and manual movements respectively. The water resistance of these watches was deemed ‘perfect’ and the functioning ‘completely correct’ in a letter by the Commander of the G.E.R.S. of the time.”

The MN played a pivotal role in the submariner's development and had significant influence on its design, including the transition to a larger crown. Interestingly, some early “Big Crown” submariners featured Rolex 6538 case backs. We know this because examples exist where the stamped 6538 is crossed out, and a 7922 stamp is found below. These prototypes, so to speak, had serial ranges that closely resembled those of Rolex and were out of sync with Tudor's serial timeline. Thus, one might conclude that Tudor was experimenting with Rolex 6538 cases in pursuit of an ideal dive watch for professionals, based on feedback from the MN. This eventually paved the way for the 7924 “Big Crown,” which was also used by the MN. But before we delve into the 7924, let's first examine one of the most unusual models to emerge from Rolex or Tudor.

Ref. 7923

According to my research, around 15 examples of the ref. 7923 have surfaced, all falling within the 217xxx to 218xxx serial range. If you refer to the section above, you'll note the approximate serial range for the 7922 is 244xxx to 288xxx. This raises the question: if the 7922 came first, why does the serial range of this reference tell a different story? Some collectors speculate that the 7923 was actually the first submariner, while others believe it was sold alongside the 7922. The reality is that we must accept ambiguity within this era of Tudor submariners.

Ref. 7924

“Convinced of the potential of the watches offered by the Geneva brand, he (referring to the Commander of Groupement d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines) placed a new order for watches that were water-resistant to 200 meters. This led, at the end of the 1950s, to the birth of the famous TUDOR Submariner reference 7924, recognizable by its large, oversized crown, known by collectors as the “Big Crown”. This watch remains TUDOR's most iconic diver's watch today.” - Tudor Watch

After several years of close collaboration and experimentation with the MN, Tudor released the reference 7924 in 1958.

With the 7924, Tudor reverted to the cal. 390 and with that brought back the inscriptions, “PRINCE” “ROTOR” and “SELF-WINDING.” The significant upgrade included a “Big Crown” 8mm in size and a depth rating increase to 200m. We also see the introduction of a large lollipop seconds hand that is used throughout the reference.